Chateau d’Ampuis
1996 Cote-Rotie, E.Guigal
Sure I should have waited five to ten more years to open this cellerable bottle of Northern Rhone super juice, but since it was a Tuesday, and there was an NBA game on, I decided that this special occasion warranted a special bottle. So, bye-bye cork and hello Syrah.
This is Marcel Guigal’s second release of this reserve Cote Rotie. This bottle of Château d’Ampuis fits into Guigals Cote Rotie portfolio above the standard Cote Rotie “Brune et Blonde”, and below (in price & demand) the three vineyard designate bottlings that run about $200 a pop. So this should be considered the reserve, and at $85 a bottle you might have to reach into your reserves to pick up a bottle. The fruit for this bottle is sourced form six different and distinct vineyards all from around the town of Ampuis and case production is around 2500.
This wine reveals itself as another prime example of the benefits of spending time with an individual wine, and of course, no spitting. It has a dark purple-red color and a powerful and pleasant oaked, peppery and black currant aromas. Nice. The flavors are piercing and crash into your mouth with kamikaze intensity, but then fall back. Next sip, they jump in quick again, infiltrate your mouth and leave a little slower this time.
Meaty, gamey goodness flows freely here, and the highly extracted red currant and herbal blackberry flavors come together to back them up. A little menthol factor follows and the leathery and splintered wood is all mixed in. Full mouth feel and a big chunky texture makes this bottle seem like a Magnum, I feel like I’m on my eighth glass by now. The intense aromas of black pepper that came across form the start find themselves working with the gamey flavors and turn this bottle into a hearty meal in itself. I don’t need a midnight snack after this bottle.
So potent, and this follow up to the ‘95 premier release will be well received. 1996 was a very good vintage for the Northern Rhone and even though the tannins are firm and hearty, as they should be, this 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier is drinking well now but will cellar for the next 15-20 years. I will have to keep opening bottles every couple of years just to check on how it’s doing. This wine has seen 36 months in new oak barrels and is not for the weak of heart. If you burn the back of your throat on the first sip of this wine, and then smile, you know this wine is for you.
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February 14th, 2010 at 12:38 am
I was studying something else about this on another blog. Interesting. Your perspective on it is diametrically opposed to what I read before. I am still reflecting over the various points of view, but I’m tipped to a great extent toward yours. And regardless, that’s what is so super about advanced democracy and the marketplace of thoughts on-line.