Feelin’ Rhoney
I start to get a little antsy, and a bit sweaty and then naughty and nasty thoughts of Syrah fill my head.
It usually happens around 10 o’clock at night, when I’m starting to relax after a long day. I know something is going to fill my glass in a minute, but what is it going to be? I start to get a little antsy, and a bit sweaty and then naughty and nasty thoughts of Syrah fill my head. Yep, I need to pop a cork on something and I think it should go by the name of Crozes-Hermitage. Oh, that feels better, and now another, and now a little more. When I’m feelin’ that Rhoney, it takes about three bottles to get me over it. Of course it could happen to me again tomorrow night, but I’ll be ready.
I like to start with my Gigondas from the Southern Rhone, and then work my way up to the Northern Rhone with its full-blown Syrah’s. Tonight I choose Crozes-Hermitage from the North. I started with a 1998 E. Guigal Gigondas, then moved onto a smooth 1999 Paul Jaboulet Aine “Les Jalets” Crozes-Hermitage, then got my corkscrew into a bottle of 1998 Paul Jaboulet Aine “Domaine de Thalabert” Crozes-Hermitage.
This was a pretty good selection and not that expensive. Here is some info on two out of the three.
Paul Jaboulet Aine
1998 “Domaine de Thalabert”
Crozes Hermitage
1998 Paul Jaboulet Aine “Domaine de Thalabert” Crozes-Hermitage Oh sweet baby, this is the goods. This wine is a full garnet/deep red in color that just lightens up slightly on the edges with distinct and potent aromas of spice and gamey black pepper. A whiff of this should always put a smile on your face. The aromas seem to stick with the spicy first impression but do start to include a bit of ripe berry as you get to your 2nd minute with your nose in the glass.
The ripe red tangy raspberry flavors come across in the mouth and penetrate everywhere. The solid full body of this wine has some muscle and kick, but also shows a more silky mellow side on the finish. The younger ripe flavors of raspberry get fuller as the bottle empties, or as it spends some more time with your tongue. Heavier cassis and some earthy flavors intertwine with the tangy spice and make for an all around good time with this 100% Syrah wine.
The peppery spice is more in the aromas than taste for me, but does play an important part mixing with some of the berry flavors. The “Domaine de Thalabert” vineyard always puts out some good stuff and in an exceptional year like “98” this wine is drinking nicely now but is also ready to lay down in your cellar now for 4-8 years. Let it rest a while and some of the explosive fruit should be waiting for you and will be just a little more mature.
E. Guigal
1998 Gigondas
This is the wine to drink first as a warm up to the Jaboulet. With 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre this blend is a bit lighter in body than the Northern Rhones but just as fun to power down. The crimson red color has a consistent nice lightness to it and is very clean and clear of any flaws. Aromas that first come on the scene are burnt cherries and then followed up by some spicy clove.
This wine has seen two years in oak casks and has all the grip and spiciness that Grenache can offer. This blend offers up earthy, leathery and good amounts of red berry flavors. It can be a bit chewy and the robust body can keep this wine going in your glass for a long time, but it will be down your throat before to long.
The “98” vintage was seen as a very nice vintage for the entire Rhone valley but it was heralded as one of the best vintage for the South in almost 10 years. I like this wine for a classic example of Grenache in the Southern Rhone. The tannins are light and the body medium and can do a little cellar time for 3-4 years.
If you get through these two bottles and you are feeling good, then my job is done. For the price on these two bottles I will take these as a representation of the Rhone any day. You can drop a lot more money when shopping for wines from this region, but you don’t have to. God bless Syrah.
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