Marsala: history of falls and rises

“Domenico Buff uncorked a bottle of his original” Vergine “ten extracts, prepared exclusively from grapes Grillo, and generously filled glass-sized aquarium for goldfish. In the dim light was visible shimmering color drink – as yellow as a buttercup, dense and rich. I sniffed the wine and felt a mixture of delicious shades of sweet peas, broom, peach and butterscotch with traces of the tubular tobacco. – Great. Brave bunch – I said and did a little sip. Marsala enveloped my tongue gently and tenderly, like a silk scarf, leaving a poignant mix of tastes, including a slight sweetness. And I immediately remembered his first trip to Sicily … “Matthew Fort


We brought a few bottles of Sicilian Marsala , and there was a so-called “patterning events” – right there on the eyes, we came across a book Matthew Fort, the very first pages of which revealed a short excursion into the history of Marsala. And as if only to try new wine, I decided to learn more about this wonderful drink, the book had an opportune moment.

Matthew Fort and his book

Matthew Fort “Sicily: Sweet honey, bitter lemons / Sweet Honey, Bitter Lemons: Travels in Sicily on a Vespa” – Publisher: Amphora, 2009

About the author. Matthew Fort – an unusual writer. Another lover of wine and European cuisine, the second after we know Peter Mayle . And wrote about in the same format – a personal diary. He distinguished himself by being committed not weak voyage – on a scooter (!) – Around the entire coast of Sicily. During his travels he kept gourmet scraps, which included a description of what he’s tried. Learn the country through her kitchen – it was his goal. The result is a very original art and cook book – the author directly mixed with artistic text gives recipes authentic Sicilian cuisine. And, of course, he writes a lot about vineyards, winemaking and wines of the island. Below – his notes on the Marsala. So, the word Matthew Fort.

Marsala – port, with three sides washed by the waters. It is the sea would come the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Spaniards, Englishmen and Americans, and the spirit of ancient civilizations has been preserved in the city today. By Sea flowing off the Marsala wine, which brought her a half-century ago the world glory. ”

The British and Marsala

“In 1773, of Liverpool here in search of ingredients for soaps, arrived Englishman, John Woodhouse. Instead, he found a local strong alcoholic drink, and decided that it was Marsala must be to the taste of the English aristocracy. The beginning of the business contributed Wodehouse Admiral Horatio Nelson who ordered in 1798, after the Battle of the Nile a few barrels for his sailors. Over the next century Marsala made tremendous condition. ”

Marsala – heyday in the 19 century

“Relations with Britain prospered, thanks in no small measure contributed to the relationships that emerged between Woodhouse with Inghemami and Whitaker,” kings, living near the volcano, “as they called the family, engaged in production and trade in Marsala.”

“Sicilian clans also came into play, and in the first place – family Florio, who became one of the richest and influential of the island. They made a great contribution to the cultural life of Sicily and the prosperity of the Italian nation. [Marsala exported to America, Germany, Russia and other countries.] In America, for example, in the period of prohibition Marsala was sold as a health tonic. ”

Marsala – decline in the early 20 century

“Glory to its early droop when the owners sold their businesses to large companies; as reducing the area of vineyards, wine quality has deteriorated and sacrificed price …
The consequences were not long in coming: Marsala is stopped drinking. People said that it is suitable only for cooking, and poured into their glasses chardonnay: “This is a pathetic substitute sherry or Madeira, devoid of any kind was individuality.”
Along the entire length of the sea lines of the city were huge empty building, which previously kept Marsala, and where it transported around the world … Most of them have turned into dumping grounds … The three-story structure with a vaulted shady first floor and Corinthian columns … owned by Whitaker, once struck by its majesty . Now the gilded plaster crumbled, but the stone was destroyed … ”

Marsala – revival in the second half of the 20 century

“In one of these labyrinths, began again to show signs of life. Marsala ready to return. Its revival began when a talented winemaker Marco de Bortoli, thinking that salvation lies in quality rather than quantity, started producing wine under the new standards. Joined him a few families, including Buffy, and gradually won back the lost reputation Marsala position. And Edward Lear have written:

In the magnificent living room sitting
The walls are hundreds of books that manage, design,
Had dragged it Marsala – glass to glass,
But he hops into captivity and not taken. ”

After such a seed Matthew Fort, of course, want to continue acquaintance with the famous Sicilian wine. So, in the following positions: Marsala in a number of other fortified wines – Madeira and sherry; grapes grown for the production of Marsala, production technology and aging; types of Marsala, the main manufacturers and brands. And also interesting to examine the combination of marsala with various dishes; moreover, as a sweet strong wine marsala is widely used in cooking – as a constituent of sauces, creams and supplements.