Martin Codax

martin-codax 1998 Albarino
Those Spaniards are going to take over soon if the word gets out on wines like this. They already have the most land dedicated to vines on the planet and the juice has been getting better and more attention has been focused on them in the last 10 years. Most of you may know the region of Rioja with its fantastic red wines, but how about the white wines of Rias Baixas.

Yea, you heard me right, Rias Baixas (ree-ahss bii-shahs), say it a dozen times and get used to that “x” pronounced as a “sh”. After a couple of bottles we don’t care how you pronounce it. The wine of the month here at Damn Good Wine headquarters is the 1998 Martin Codax Albarino. Oh, you don’t know Albarino, well let me introduce you. Say hello to my lil’ friend.

Medium gold in color with what seems to be some stuff floating in it, but after further examination it reveals itself as the tiniest of effervescent bubbles, or so it seems. I’m not sure, but I don’t care, because this is a terrific wine. First sniff brings almonds, then oily nuts. Then weed, smoked wood, and pan seared peaches. So you get the picture so far, very intense aromas. The flavors are very happenin’ also.

Your mouth gets to experience bright, lemon-limey, pineappleish, and candied lemon peel flavors. They are focused and brisk enough to not be annoying. The flavor intensity moves upwards and upwards in your mouth and right when you think that the wine is going to flatten out and start to round off and come back down the flavors just stop. They stop right at the top. It is a hard thing to explain in words but it is a nice experience.

This is a dry wine with a Sauvignon Blanc on steroids personality, and a Chardonnay cross dressing like a Viognier mouth feel (and aroma), medium bodied and well worth the $14. Nice acidity with flavors that don’t fade, it is just all around good stuff. Should work well with a plethora of dishes, seafood being the first to come to mind.

This Albarino ends with a blanket of ripe citrus and holds its own against all those other whites from France, California and Australia that you may be drinking. I may be recommending a wine that is not that easy to find but when I drink something I really like I have to tell you. Good luck in hunting it down. The Martin Codax winery also releases another 100% Albarino from its winery that goes by the name of Burgans, and is also a nice wine. Check ‘em out.

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